Which scenario describes a spilling wave?

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Multiple Choice

Which scenario describes a spilling wave?

Explanation:
Spilling breakers happen when a wave moves over a gently sloping bottom. As depth decreases gradually, the wave slows and grows taller, and the crest becomes unstable, spilling down the front as white water. The scenario describing energy meeting a sloping ocean floor fits this pattern—the crest spreads down the face rather than curling violently or slamming onto the beach. In contrast, a sudden depth change like a reef or steep rise tends to produce a more abrupt break (often a plunging breaker), very steep beaches break with energy mostly on the shore, and waves that don’t break aren’t spilling. So the described behavior matches the spreading, gradual spill of a spilling breaker.

Spilling breakers happen when a wave moves over a gently sloping bottom. As depth decreases gradually, the wave slows and grows taller, and the crest becomes unstable, spilling down the front as white water. The scenario describing energy meeting a sloping ocean floor fits this pattern—the crest spreads down the face rather than curling violently or slamming onto the beach. In contrast, a sudden depth change like a reef or steep rise tends to produce a more abrupt break (often a plunging breaker), very steep beaches break with energy mostly on the shore, and waves that don’t break aren’t spilling. So the described behavior matches the spreading, gradual spill of a spilling breaker.

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